@marthadimeoVision & Innovation
I learned about the convergence of these sectors when I received a copy of Collections 2020, the Rhode Island School of Design (RISD) publication to commemorate the work of the 2020 Fashion Apparel graduates.
Wheat Farming, Papermaking, & Fashion
Wheat farmers and clothing manufacturers provide the straw and cotton that is turned into pulp. Mohawk Paper then turns the pulp into paper. Finally, the Fashion Apparel grads, as an alternative to the annual Collections runway show, had their senior thesis presented in a wonderfully designed and beautifully manufactured book. A silver-lining story that gave the new graduates a treasured keepsake, produced in an earth-friendly and sustainable way.
Reclaimed Straw & Recycled Cotton
The book was sent to me along with the catalog of Mohawk Paper’s new line of paper called Renewal. The papers in the portfolio are made from hemp, recycled cotton, and straw. The RISD book (pictured below) spotlights these papers. Reclaimed straw is used for the cover, and the interior pages on paper made from discarded t-shirt cotton. (How perfect is that; a book about fashion printed on textile waste!)
Print & The Pandemic
The book was produced as a result of the pandemic. The graduating seniors could not hold the much anticipated annual runway show that celebrates that culmination of four years of fashion design study. So instead, the school found another way to present their work; to honor their talent. They turned to print.
Intrigued by this new line of sustainable papers, and the silver-lining story where print saved the day for the graduating seniors, I wanted to learn more. So I reached out to Sarah Arnold, National Account Manager at Mohawk. Through our conversation, I heard a story of environmental stewardship, a story of vision and innovation, and was reminded about the power of print.
A New Chapter in Mohawk’s Story
Legacy Fibers
The initiative began, as Arnold explained, with environmental considerations. Mohawk wanted to write the next chapter in the company’s sustainability story. They turned to legacy fibers—hemp, straw, cotton textiles. It’s described this way in the Renewal swatchbook, “We’re looking to the past to define a more sustainable future.”
With that mission came the reimagining of hemp, the reuse of cotton, and the reclaim of straw. Each material has its own fascinating sustainability story. I outline the characteristics of each below.
Design & Printing Possibilities
As you read through the descriptions keep two things in mind. Each paper is available in a selection of colors and weights. And, all are suitable for both offset and digital presses. With so many surface choices, and the option of short-run digital printing, the doors are wide open for all kinds of projects and possibilities. Whatever you may decide to create with these papers, you should feel good knowing your choice of materials is benefiting the planet, and contributing to the growth of innovative industries, all while contributing to a more sustainable future.
The Portfolio of Renewal Papers
Reimagine Hemp
Color
The hemp line includes shades of clean white, a warm white, and a shade of green the color of the hemp leaf.
The Sustainability Story
- It can be raised nearly everywhere.
- It reaches maturity in 90 days or less. (As a comparison, trees take 7-35 years to grow to maturity.)
- It takes fewer chemicals, and less water and energy than wood to turn into pulp.
Recycled Cotton
Color
The cotton line comes in two shades; t-shirt white and denim.
The Sustainability Story
- With the rise of fast fashion, textile waste increased by 40% in just 10 years.
- Textile waste takes 200 years or more to decompose, all the while releasing methane gas as it sits in the landfill.
- By turning cotton scraps into pulp, millions of tons of waste are being diverted from landfills. The end result—strong, soft, beautiful paper.
Reclaim Straw
Color
The straw line includes two shades; a lightly-colored yellow-toned named ‘harvest white’, and a yellow-orange the color of straw.
The Sustainability Story
- Straw is a waste product of wheat harvesting.
- Turning straw into paper pulp finds a use for something that otherwise has no monetary value.
- It’s a gift to the atmosphere. There is less carbon emissions and acrid smoke polluting the air.
Color Variations & Texture
There is another characteristic worth noting. In designing these papers, Mohawk allowed the original fiber sources to contribute to the aesthetics of each paper. The denim has the white and blue variation of denim threads and the straw has the look of straw fibers. They are quite lovely.
To see samples of each of the papers, visit the Mohawk links listed below.
The Power of Print
As I pour over and marvel at the fashions presented in the RISD’s Collections 2020 publication, I’m reminded of the power of print. The pandemic stripped the students of the excitement of a runway show—nothing can replace that experience. However, the silver lining that came out of the crisis is that this new generation of fashion designers left school with a wonderful book—a permanent record of their work.
For the makers, it’s a tangible keepsake, an artifact they can hold in their hands. And for the readers, the photographs provide the opportunity to really study the artistry and to truly appreciate the creativity and craftsmanship that went into each garment.
That is the beauty and the power of print. To be able to hold something in your hands and really look and see and appreciate all that is presented.
A Selection of Articles from the Mohawk Site
Paper with a Purpose: Recycled Cotton Paper
The Story of the Straw (Be sure to watch the video on this page.)
My Personal Project on Renewal
An Earth Day Poster on T-Shirt White -120DTC
Earth Day 2021, Kirkwood Printing (Wilmington, MA) offered the design community a challenge. Design a poster on the theme of Earth Day. All entries would be printed on the designer’s choice of paper from the Renewal line. I chose t-shirt white to reproduce my design with this photograph that has saturated blues, pastel pinks, deep blacks, and whites with tonality and detail.
The matte surface of t-shirt white was the perfect choice for this image and the color reproduction impressive. I’m quite pleased with the results.
Want to Work Towards a World Free of Plastic Pollution?
Learn about the mission of the Plastic Pollution Coalition, its projects, and ways to take action.
Update
Sign the petition in support of the 2023 version of the Break Free From Plastic Pollution Act.
Article, Photography & Photo Retouching by Martha DiMeo